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θ: camming angle\n
f: fall force\n
φ: crack flare angle\n
μ: minimum coefficient of friction\n
fccam force (per crack side)\n
\n", "yWeight" : 0.5, "x" : 0.32516342702531137, "y" : 0.8698810732453088, "scale" : 1.0 }, { "decoration" : "label", "text" : "φ", "xWeight" : 0.5, "x" : 0.22547873088631543, "y" : 0.8488984933129728, "scale" : 1.0 }, { "decoration" : "label", "text" : "φ", "xWeight" : 0.5, "yWeight" : 0.5, "x" : 0.20541998429194452, "y" : 0.5518753893735358, "scale" : 0.8 }, { "decoration" : "label", "text" : "fc sin θ", "xWeight" : 0.5, "yWeight" : 1.0, "x" : 0.1548198199748154, "y" : 0.623770050304178, "angle" : 1.3264502315156903, "scale" : 0.75 }, { "decoration" : "label", "text" : "fc cos θ", "xWeight" : 0.5, "yWeight" : 1.0, "x" : 0.26954421112223836, "y" : 0.6710226926490099, "angle" : -0.24434609527920617, "scale" : 0.75 }, { "decoration" : "label", "text" : "fc sin θ = μ fc cos θ
\nμ = tan θ*
\n2 fc sin(θ-φ) = f
\n(2 b/c crack has two sides)
\nfc = f / (2 sin (θ-φ))", "yWeight" : 0.5, "x" : 0.4669858752342311, "y" : 0.697273816814723, "scale" : 1.0 }, { "decoration" : "label", "text" : "θ", "xWeight" : 0.5, "yWeight" : 0.5, "x" : 0.3240384754006995, "y" : 0.6438503687954438, "scale" : 0.75 }, { "decoration" : "label", "text" : "fc sin (θ-φ)", "xWeight" : 0.5, "yWeight" : 1.0, "x" : 0.42552913723199887, "y" : 0.5942199032848567, "angle" : 1.5707963267948966, "scale" : 0.6 }, { "decoration" : "label", "text" : "Force diagram for a cam in a
symmetrical vertically flaring crack", "xWeight" : 0.5, "yWeight" : 0.5, "x" : 0.37155301971435556, "y" : 1.0002923248669464, "scale" : 1.0 }, { "decoration" : "label", "text" : "* Theoretical minimum coefficient of friction for cam to hold. Caveats from cam manufacturers: cam may grind soft rock surfaces into dust and skate out on that dust layer. (That is why Fat Cams exist.) Also, in a flare, if the cam loses contact with the rock and is pulled out fast enough, it may never reestablish contact.", "x" : 0.4642012217906215, "y" : 0.4239523231845145, "scale" : 0.6666666666666666, "autoWidth" : true }, { "decoration" : "label", "text" : "For typical camming angles, about twice the supported force is exerted on the sides of a parallel crack. HIgher forces are needed in flaring cracks.", "x" : 0.4699401977962806, "y" : 0.5979595627011784, "scale" : 0.6666666666666666, "boxed" : true, "autoWidth" : true } ] }